Header Install

Thanks to Tom Hand I was able to get my hands on a set of headers due to be released in the future for some testing. These headers are very high quality and well engineered. Below are pictures and notes I took during the install. If you have any further questions please feel free to email them to me. If you would like more info on the release date you can drop Tom an email at thand@sprintmail.com

1

Due to the fact that my floor jack would not get any higher and not wanting to waste any time I settled for being able to get the front tires 10 inches off the ground. The back tires were 5 inches off the ground just to give me more room to work. After unbolting the exhaust at the flanges, I was able to just drop the exhaust pipes down and remove the Manifolds. You will notice in the other pictures ( pic 2 and 5 ) the exhaust system pushed to the side as I installed the headers. These were at no time in the way. I did not want to cut them until I knew exactly the point that they were going to bolt to the header collector.

2

I decided to remove and replace the starter before the header install. (See pic 2) The starter had been acting up on occasion and I was not sure on how much room I would have to change it while the header was bolted up. I recommend making some longer starter wires with a connector up in the engine compartment. It looks close to impossible to get to the wires the way the tubes of the headers wrap around the solenoid. I also put a small heat shield on the solenoid. For the 6 bucks it cost me it couldn't hurt.

3

Honestly there is not much to tell on the actual install. The passenger side slid right in with No issues. I think from the time I unbolted the manifold and had the header bolted in was perhaps 20 minutes. You will find the third bolt from the front a bit tricky to get started. The bolt head comes so close to that header tube its difficult to get started. I recommend you get the front and back started and left very loose so you can jiggle the header to get that bolt started. The back two as well as the front header bolts can be tightened from under the car with a socket and extension. The middle two and second from the front you will have to use a box wrench. Overall tightening was not a problem as there is plenty of room. Note I do have the oil filter adapter used on the long Branch manifolds. It moves the oil filter almost 3 inches from the closest header tube. (see pic 8 ) I recommending spending the $30.00 and doing this.

4

The Driver side header looked like it was going to be a bit tougher. After replacing the starter and making the longer starter wires I bolted them up to the solenoid but waited until after the header was installed to decide the best route for the them. (See pic 5 ) Then I proceeded to slide the header in place. It slid in very easily. While tilting the header until collector just touched the ground I slid the header in. Once the front of the header was lined up I lightly jiggled the header past the gear box and in place. Notice this was an AC car and has the curved pitman arm. (see pic 2) I do not foresee any problems installing these headers on a car that was equipped with the straight pitman arm. I did not have to loosen the motor mount to lift the motor or even touch the gear box. After sliding in the gasket I tightened the bolts using the same procedure as the passenger side. All bolts with the exception of the back one must be tightened with a box wrench from the engine compartment. Space is a bit more limited than the other side but still was no big deal.

5

A shot from under the car looking up towards the starter.

6

After torqing down the header it was time to get to work on the exhaust. Because I did not want to modify the collectors by flaring them out to fit my 2 1/2 exhaust pipe I choose to buy some sleeves that would fit over both the collectors and my exhaust pipe and then clamp it all together. Not normally would I would do but for this testing it will work fine. Using my sawzalls I cut the exhaust pipes to the needed length and connected them to the flanges.(see pic 7)

7

The exhaust cutouts are just out of shot on this picture. This may not be the optimal setup on a race car, but for my street/strip application they work great. (pickup of .10 1/8 mile and .25 in the 1/4 with exhaust manifolds) Testing with the headers will follow soon.

8

Notice the oil filter clearance. With the long branch manifolds I had to loosen the oil filter from under the car, balance it against the frame and the manifold, then pull the filter out through the top. (got very messy at times) With the headers I can loosen and remove the oil filter from under the car.

9

Another shot of the oil filter clearance.

10

Ground clearance is good, 6 1/2 inches on the passenger side and 4 1/2 inches on the drivers.

11

Performance

The prior week I had run the car at the local 1/8 mile drag strip. I do all my testing on actual race night as I am able to calculate the time between races closer. This often means I lose in the first or second round but having at least an hour between runs I am able to monitor weather conditions and engine temperature better. On the "test and tune" night you end up idling in long lines for 30 minutes before actually getting to run.

Below are the weather conditions, times and speeds from before and after the header install. All runs were with exhaust cutouts open and MT 29x9.0 slicks. I launch at 2200 and shift at 5900 rpm. These are my best runs of the night but all runs were within .07

Sept 24, 1999

Temp: 75 Humidity: 84% Wind: calm

Oct 1, 1999

Temp: 73 Humidity: 78% Wind: head wind 10 mph

I think the biggest surprise was the 60 foot times. I had never run a 60 foot at better then 1.87 in the past. I figured the headers would get me more on the other end but not off the line. This was also the first time I had ever pulled the front tire off the ground!! The body and suspension of the car is all stock. I could not believe it as I watched the video I had a friend shoot and could see more then an inch of air between the tire and the track. I was shocked! I might even see about getting the video transferred to avi or mpg format so I can post it on my site. It may be time to start thinking of a better rear end, don't know how long the 8.2 can last under this extreme use. I will be doing more testing in the upcoming weeks with the exhaust closed as well as some 1/4 times.

Starter Replacement

Three days after the header install the "NEW" starter I had installed died on me. I guess I was going to find out how difficult is was going to be to change with the header in place sooner then I expected. Well the connector I installed came in very handy. After disconnecting the connector I unbolted the starter and I was able to dropped it down with ease. The header actually helped as I could lean it against the header to remove the battery cable, then lower it to the ground. Installing the new starter was just as easy. The whole process took about 20 minutes.

Summery

I would HIGHLY recommend these headers to anyone with a first generation Firebird. The ease in which they installed was amazing. One of the biggest fears of First generation Firebird owners that I have experienced is fighting with headers. Most owners think they are going to have to layout BIG cash for a header that will bolt in place without having to beat the hell out of it with a hammer. If these headers can be gotten for a reasonable price (between $150.00 and $250.00) I think they would sell like hotcakes.

Tom. Thanks for giving me the opportunity to test these headers. I enjoyed the installation and documenting as well as the testing I am currently doing. If you ever need anything else please don't hesitate to ask. Chris

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